Nafplio sits on the eastern coast of the Peloponnese, about 140 km southwest of Athens. The drive takes 2 hours, almost all on good motorway. Unlike the major archaeological sites, Nafplio's appeal is in walking its streets, climbing to its fortresses, eating well, and soaking up a town that has been shaped by Venetians, Ottomans, and Greeks over centuries.

We have a separate guide covering Mycenae and Nafplio together as a combined trip. This article focuses on Nafplio itself -- there's easily enough here to fill a full day.

Three Castles

Nafplio has three fortifications, which tells you something about how strategically important this town was.

Palamidi Fortress

The crown jewel. Built by the Venetians between 1711 and 1714, Palamidi dominates the town from a 216-metre hilltop. It's a massive complex of eight bastions connected by walls, tunnels, and gates.

The famous steps: 857 steps (often reported as 999) carved into the rock face lead from the old town to the top. The climb takes 20-30 minutes and is steep but manageable. Bring water.

Or drive: A road winds up the back side of the hill to a car park near the entrance. Much easier.

At the top: Panoramic views in every direction -- the old town below, the Argolic Gulf, Bourtzi castle in the harbour, and on clear days, the mountains of Arcadia to the west. Wander the bastions, explore the tunnels, and find the cell where the revolutionary hero Kolokotronis was imprisoned.

Entrance fee: 8 EUR (full), 4 EUR (reduced).

Opening hours: 08:00-20:00 (summer), 08:30-15:30 (winter).

Tip: Go late afternoon for the best light and a sunset from the walls. Or go first thing in the morning to avoid the heat and crowds.

Bourtzi Castle

A small Venetian water fortress on the islet of Agios Theodoros, right in the middle of the harbour. Built in 1473 to protect the port. It later served as the residence of the town's executioner and briefly as a hotel in the 20th century.

Getting there: Small boats depart from the harbour every 30 minutes in summer. The ride takes 10 minutes. Check locally for schedules -- services depend on weather and season.

Bourtzi is mainly a viewpoint and photo opportunity. The building itself is partly open for events. The views back towards Nafplio and Palamidi are lovely.

Akronafplia

The oldest fortification, sitting on the rocky peninsula between the old town and Arvanitia beach. Parts of the walls date to the Bronze Age, with layers added by Romans, Byzantines, Venetians, and Ottomans.

Unlike Palamidi, Akronafplia is free to enter and open all the time. Walk up through the old town or take the lift (elevator) from Plateia Polydouriou. The sunset views from here are excellent, and it's far less visited than Palamidi.

The Old Town

Nafplio's old town is compact and walkable -- you can cover the main streets in an hour, though you'll want longer to sit, eat, and browse.

Syntagma Square -- The main square, surrounded by neoclassical buildings including the former Venetian arsenal (now the Archaeological Museum). Cafes line the edges. This was the centre of Greek political life when Nafplio was the capital.

Staikopoulou Street -- The main pedestrianised shopping street. Jewellery, leather, ceramics, komboloi (worry beads), and ice cream. Touristy but pleasant.

The backstreets -- Get off Staikopoulou and wander. Narrow lanes with bougainvillea, Ottoman-era fountains, tiny churches, and neighbourhood cats. This is where Nafplio reveals its real character.

The Waterfront Promenade -- Runs along the south side of the old town. Evening strolling territory. Pass the Five Brothers (five Venetian cannons), look across at Bourtzi lit up at night, and people-watch from a seaside cafe.

Museums

Archaeological Museum -- On Syntagma Square in a Venetian arsenal building. Finds from the Bronze Age to the Roman period, including items from Mycenae, Tiryns, and the Franchthi Cave. Small but worthwhile.

Peloponnesian Folklore Foundation -- Award-winning ethnological museum in a neoclassical townhouse. Traditional costumes, textiles, and crafts. Well-curated and worth a visit.

Komboloi Museum -- Dedicated to the Greek worry bead. A quirky collection showing the history and craftsmanship of komboloi. On Staikopoulou Street. Entry 2 EUR.

War Museum (Nafplio branch) -- Covers the Greek War of Independence with local focus. Interesting if you want context on why Nafplio was the first capital.

Beaches

Arvanitia Beach -- A small pebble beach directly below Akronafplia, a 10-minute walk from the old town along a coastal path. Clear water, scenic setting, some sunbeds. The closest swim to town.

Karathona Beach -- A long sandy beach about 2 km south of the old town (10 minutes by car, 30 minutes on foot along the coastal path from Arvanitia). Blue Flag certified. Beach bars, tavernas, shallow water. The best beach near Nafplio.

Tolo -- A small resort town 12 km east. Long sandy beach, fully organised, popular with families. Bus service from Nafplio.

Where to Eat

Nafplio has excellent restaurants. The old town is full of tavernas and restaurants ranging from casual to refined.

For fresh fish: Look for the tavernas along the harbour front and towards Arvanitia.

For traditional food: The backstreet tavernas behind Syntagma Square tend to be better value and more authentic than the main square.

For atmosphere: The waterfront promenade restaurants have views but higher prices. Worth it for an evening meal watching the sun set behind Bourtzi.

Local specialities: Bogiourdi (baked feta with peppers and tomato), octopus grilled or stewed, and Nemea red wine from the region.

Budget 15-25 EUR per person for a good taverna meal with wine.

How to Get There

By Car (2 hours)

Take the A8/E94 motorway from Athens towards Corinth, then the E65 south through Argos to Nafplio. Good roads throughout. Expect 8-10 EUR in tolls. Parking in the old town is limited -- there's a car park on the east side and some spaces along the waterfront.

By Bus (2-2.5 hours)

KTEL buses from Kifissos station in Athens to Nafplio run several times daily. Cost around 15 EUR one way. The bus station in Nafplio is a short walk from the old town.

By Guided Tour

Many Peloponnese day tours from Athens include Nafplio, usually combined with Mycenae and/or Epidaurus. If you want a Nafplio-focused day, a private tour or car rental gives more flexibility.

Suggested Day Trip Itinerary

  • 08:00 -- Leave Athens by car
  • 10:00 -- Arrive Nafplio. Coffee on Syntagma Square.
  • 10:30 -- Climb Palamidi (or drive up)
  • 12:00 -- Walk the old town, browse Staikopoulou Street
  • 13:00 -- Lunch at a harbour taverna
  • 14:30 -- Walk to Arvanitia beach (or drive to Karathona) for a swim
  • 16:30 -- Explore Akronafplia, watch the light change
  • 17:30 -- Final coffee on the waterfront
  • 18:00 -- Drive back to Athens (arrive ~20:00)

Practical Tips

  • Nafplio is popular with Athenians on weekends. Especially spring and autumn weekends. Visit on a weekday for a quieter experience.
  • The Palamidi steps are steep but not as bad as the "999 steps" legend suggests. Take your time, bring water, and you'll be fine. Anyone with knee problems should drive up instead.
  • Comfortable shoes are essential. The old town has cobblestones and the fortresses have rough ground.
  • Stay for sunset if possible. Nafplio at golden hour, with Bourtzi lit by low sun, is one of the prettiest sights in the Peloponnese.
  • Consider an overnight. Nafplio deserves more than a day trip. A night in the old town, with dinner on the waterfront and a morning walk before the crowds, is a different experience entirely. Boutique hotels in converted neoclassical mansions start from around 80-120 EUR per night.

Best Time to Visit

Spring (April-May) -- Wildflowers, comfortable temperatures, the town is lively but not overrun.

Autumn (September-October) -- Warm enough to swim, golden light, quieter than summer.

Summer -- Hot but the sea is warm and the evening promenade comes alive.

Winter -- Nafplio doesn't close for winter. The town is quieter, some restaurants close, but it's still charming. Palamidi in mist or rain has a brooding atmosphere.

Nafplio is 140 km from Athens. The drive takes about 2 hours. KTEL buses run several times daily.