Greece has ski resorts. This surprises people. Mount Parnassus, 2,457 metres above sea level and about 2.5 hours from Athens, has the biggest ski resort in the country. And at its foot sits Arachova -- a stone-built mountain village that's been called the "Winter Mykonos" for its restaurants, bars, and weekend energy.
In this guide
This is Athens' premier winter day trip. While the rest of the country focuses on beaches and islands, the mountain crowd heads to Parnassus for skiing and to Arachova for the apres-ski. But the area works year-round -- Arachova is charming in any season, and the mountain offers hiking once the snow melts.
Arachova
The Village
Arachova clings to the southern slopes of Parnassus at 960 metres, a cascade of stone houses and red roofs built into a mountainside. The main street runs along a ridge with views over a deep gorge. In winter, it fills with Athenians escaping the city for a weekend of mountain air, good food, and nightlife. In summer, it's quieter but still lively, serving as a base for Delphi visitors and hikers.
What to do: - Walk the main street -- Stone-paved, lined with shops, galleries, and restaurants. Boutiques selling furs, leather, and local textiles. - Try the local food -- Arachova is famous for its formaela cheese (grilled or fried, firm and slightly sweet), hilopites (handmade square egg pasta), and honey from Parnassus wildflowers. - Visit the church of Agios Georgios -- At the top of the village with views over the gorge. - Browse the farmers' market -- Local honey, cheese, wine, herbs, and preserves. - Nightlife (weekends) -- Wine bars and restaurants stay busy until late, especially on winter Saturday nights. The atmosphere is sociable without being excessive.
Where to Eat
Arachova has excellent restaurants for its size. The cooking is mountain Greek -- hearty, seasonal, and meat-heavy. Expect to pay 20-35 EUR per person for a full meal with wine.
Specialities to look for: formaela saganaki (pan-fried cheese), lamb kleftiko, wild boar stifado, local sausages, and hilopites with tomato sauce or butter. Local wines from the Sterea Ellada region are underrated.
Mount Parnassus Ski Resort
The Basics
Parnassus is the largest ski resort in Greece, sitting between 1,600 and 2,260 metres. It has two main areas -- Kelaria and Fterolakka -- connected by lifts and runs.
| Stat | Detail |
|---|---|
| Highest point | 2,260 m |
| Vertical drop | 660 m |
| Runs | 23 |
| Lifts | 13 (including 2 gondolas) |
| Longest run | 4 km |
| Terrain | 30% beginner, 40% intermediate, 30% advanced |
| Snow-making | Yes (select runs) |
| Season | Typically December to late March/April |
Ski Pass Prices (approximate)
| Pass | Weekday | Weekend |
|---|---|---|
| Full day | 25 EUR | 35 EUR |
| Half day | 18 EUR | 25 EUR |
| Beginner area only | 12 EUR | 15 EUR |
These are significantly cheaper than Alpine resorts. Equipment rental (skis, boots, poles) is available at the resort and in Arachova for about 15-25 EUR per day.
What to Expect
Parnassus is not the Alps. The terrain is modest, the infrastructure is functional rather than luxurious, and conditions are weather-dependent -- some seasons have excellent snow, others are patchy. Snow-making covers the main runs but doesn't extend everywhere.
That said, the views are spectacular (you can sometimes see the Gulf of Corinth from the higher runs), the prices are a fraction of Alpine resorts, and the vibe is friendly and unpretentious. Greek skiing is a social activity as much as a sporting one -- the mountain cafes are as important as the runs.
Beginners are well-served with gentle slopes and a dedicated area. Lessons are available in Greek and English.
Intermediate skiers will enjoy the red runs between Kelaria and Fterolakka. The terrain is varied enough for a good day out.
Advanced skiers will find the resort limited. The black runs are short. Off-piste options exist but require local knowledge and appropriate conditions.
Getting to the Ski Resort
The resort is about 25 km above Arachova on a mountain road. The road is maintained in winter but snow chains or winter tyres are sometimes required. Check conditions before driving.
From Arachova, the drive takes about 30 minutes. Some Arachova hotels offer shuttle services.
How to Get There From Athens
By Car (2-2.5 hours)
Take the E75 motorway north towards Lamia, exit at Kastro, and follow signs to Arachova via Livadia. The road is good throughout. In winter, carry chains for the final stretch to the ski resort (the Arachova road itself is fine).
Expect 15-20 EUR in motorway tolls.
By Bus
KTEL buses from Liosion station in Athens to Arachova run several times daily. Journey time about 2.5-3 hours. Cost around 15 EUR one way. There's no direct public transport from Arachova to the ski resort -- you'd need a taxi (about 25-30 EUR each way).
By Organised Tour
Winter day tours from Athens to Parnassus and Arachova are available through various operators, typically including transport, lift pass, and sometimes equipment. Prices from 60-90 EUR.
Practical Tips
- Winter weekends are packed. Athenians flood Arachova on Friday and Saturday nights from December to March. Restaurant reservations are essential. The ski resort has lift queues. For a more relaxed experience, go on a weekday.
- Check snow conditions before committing to the ski resort. The season varies year to year. The resort website and social media channels post daily updates.
- Arachova is worth visiting without skiing. Even if you don't ski, the village, food, and mountain atmosphere make a good day trip from Athens in winter.
- Combine with Delphi. Arachova is just 10 minutes from Delphi. A winter trip can combine skiing or village time with a visit to the archaeological site (which is less crowded in winter).
- Summer and autumn are underrated. Arachova without the ski crowds is charming and quieter. Good base for hiking on Parnassus (the E4 trail passes through) and visiting Delphi at a relaxed pace.
Beyond Winter
When the snow melts, Parnassus transforms into hiking territory:
- Summit hike to Liakoura (2,457m) -- The highest peak in southern Greece. A challenging but non-technical hike from the ski resort area. 4-6 hours round trip. Panoramic views from the top.
- Corycian Cave -- A large cave on the plateau above Delphi, sacred to Pan and the Nymphs in antiquity. Reachable by a moderate hike from the ski area.
- E4 Trail -- The European long-distance path crosses Parnassus, offering multi-day hiking through varied mountain terrain.
Best Time to Visit
December-March -- Skiing season. Weekends for the social atmosphere, weekdays for emptier slopes.
April-May -- Snow melts, wildflowers appear. Arachova is quiet and lovely. Good hiking.
September-October -- Excellent for hiking and combining with Delphi. Clear skies, comfortable temperatures.
Arachova is 165 km from Athens, about 2.5 hours by car. Mount Parnassus ski resort is 25 km above the village. The ski season typically runs December to late March.